George
Matt Polstein is the perfect example of what it takes to succeed these days in the sporting camp business. Matt has renovated most of the old cabins that were part of Twin Pine Camps, constructed new cabins and luxurious three-bedroom houses and added a superb restaurant. He’s partnered with conservation groups to protect surrounding lands, and with outdoor recreation groups to add experiences to the traditional pursuits of hunting and fishing.
When we were there a few weeks ago, it was clear that the New England Outdoor Center is a major destination for snowmobilers. While Matt rents snowmobiles, many of his guests arrive with huge trailers full of them. Some bring two for each member of their party, in case one breaks down.
Of course, it doesn’t hurt that NEOC sits on the shore of Millinocket Lake, just eight miles on a paved road from the town of Millinocket, with gorgeous views of Mount Katahdin and access to the entire North Woods.
I’ve visited great lodges in Montana, Alaska and Quebec on fishing adventures, and Twin Pines ranks right up there with the best. And, oh yeah, the food here is worthy of the Portland dining scene — but it comes with better scenery.
As impressive as the location and view are, the food is even better. After driving up there in a snowstorm, I was ready for a beer and was delighted to find one of my favorites, Allagash Black, on the menu. It went very well with my pulled pork sandwich. The fries are large and crispy, and I actually couldn’t eat all of them.
As much as I enjoyed my sandwich, I had to admit Linda’s blackened Cajun chicken breast was even better. It was very spicy. At one point, she exclaimed, “My mouth is on fire — in a good way.” When I asked her what would be a bad way, she said, “That time you ate the hot cherry pepper.” Well, yes, but that was a mistake.
We settled into our cabin for the afternoon, glad to be inside while the wind-whipped snow flashed past our windows, until we bundled up for the short walk to the restaurant for dinner. I love their crab cakes appetizer, so I convinced Linda to share that. They were delicious with fresh herbs, lemon zest, seared in butter and covered by a peppered limoncello remoulade. I’ve never forgotten the crab-stuffed haddock I had here in 2012, so I was ecstatic to see it’s still on the menu. And it’s still fantastic, topped with a lobster claw and delicious lemon caper cream sauce.
The crispy carrots were a tasty surprise. When Lin asked if I knew why I loved them, I had to admit I did not. “They are glazed in honey and cooked in butter,” she explained. No wonder I loved them. We both fondly remembered the chocolate torte dessert and shared that. It was soooo good.
We lingered in the very busy restaurant until 9:30 p.m., enjoying the wonderful dinner, feeling blessed. And 11 hours later we were back for breakfast!
Linda
On a February break three years ago, we found out what a gem this place is, staying in one of the new “green-built” guest houses, an ultra-modern space that can accommodate a dozen people. Because there were only two of us we asked for one of the older cabins this trip.
Our cabin, Little Mud, had just been renovated with new interior walls, half walls to enclose sleeping spaces and a modern kitchen. There are two full beds and one set of bunks, so six can sleep here. New cabinets were filled with everything from dishes and silverware for six to a coffeemaker, microwave and toaster.
Matt told us they he’d built four new smaller green cabins on the lakeshore, and we took a peek at one of them. Beautiful! This is not roughing it — queen beds, flat screen TV, a modern kitchen and a nice living space with comfortable seating. These would be perfect for families or two couples.
River Drivers Restaurant is the place to eat up here, with consistently great food. For lunch I loved the Twin Pine sandwich — Cajun blackened chicken, bacon, Swiss, tomato and jalapeno ranch dressing. The Cajun spices were cooled by the dressing and accented with the salty bacon. I enjoyed every bite. This would be my “go to” sandwich if I lived closer.
During our evening meal we sat in the more private section, which has a lovely feel. One entire wall had wine in a custom made rack, which is as pretty as a sculpture. Copper-topped tables, soft lighting and windows facing Katahdin add to the ambiance. I ordered one of the evening specials — steak caprese. An expertly cooked sirloin was topped with basil and mozzarella, and served with mashed potato and glazed carrots (caramelized and yummy). The servings here are generous, so I enjoyed it just as much as leftovers a few days later.
If you want a “lake and woods vacation,” this is a sure bet. If our camp wasn’t so close, we’d spend a lot of time here.
Visit George’s website — georgesmithmaine.com — for book reviews, outdoor news and all Travelin’ Maine(rs) columns, found listed in the “Best of Maine” section.
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