You might think Rockport is a long way to drive for shepherd’s pie, but you’ve never had the shepherd’s pie at Shepherd’s Pie.

This Rockport pub has mastered the small-plate menu, providing amazing textures and tastes, superb service and a casual style that masks the big-city sophistication of the food. It was love at first bite for us, long before we got to the phenomenal signature dish — shepherd’s pie.

Linda
We’ve been hearing a lot of good things about Shepherd’s Pie in Rockport for a while now, so we were pretty happy to finally get there. This restaurant is an upbeat place situated above Rockport Harbor. With seating for 54, the restaurant was filled throughout our leisurely meal and people were still pouring in as we left at 8 p.m. on a Friday night.

Jim Haines, the manager, was also our server. He knows his wines and the food here, and confidently suggested the order in which our eclectic meal should come out. We chose dishes from Special Plates, Sides and Plates (that would qualify as an entrée). Their menu also had a From the Grill section.

The presentation of each dish was something to behold. We shared the Duck Confit from their Special Plates section as a starter. The duck was amazingly tender. This was the best dish I have tried in a long time. This plate had it all — salty and savory duck, sweetness from grape reduction and caramelized onions, peppery flavor of watercress and sour flavor from pickled rhubarb. Holy Moley! I held my own to get my fair share of this dish!

This really was my kind of place because they celebrate the vegetable. I ordered the root vegetable mash — a mix of turnip and rutabaga with gruyere cheese and fried sage. It may not sound elegant, but it certainly was delicious. George loved it as much as I did. The fact that I sought out the ingredients and made this dish at home shortly after our visit should tell you how much I loved it.

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Another side I ordered was corn grits with wild mushrooms. I don’t think I’ve ever had grits, but these were creamy and went so well with the mushrooms and parmesan cheese. It was addictive.

The friendly atmosphere of this restaurant is pervasive. People jumped up to greet one another. As we were chatting with Jim, the young couple next to us perked up when we mentioned our daughter who lives near Beth’s Farmstand (where Shepherd’s Pie gets many of its vegetables). She asked who our daughter was as she lived near the farmstand, too. It turns out she was our grandson’s babysitter a few years ago! Maine is a connected place.

Have you ever had creamy bread pudding? Shepherd’s Pie starts with its own homemade bread. Their version of bread pudding has currants, almonds, butter, curry, bourbon and caramel sauce, and is topped with whipped cream! What a great ending. It was perfect for sharing.

I don’t quite know how to convey how incredible the food is here. I would think I had a favorite dish, but whatever I ate last became my favorite. Every bite that I tasted was absolutely amazing! Find some excuse to get to Rockport soon. It’s within driving distance for dinner.

George
Shepherd’s Pie wins a prize for the best view from a restroom. The large window overlooks Rockport Harbor, where years ago we enjoyed performances by Andre the Seal.

The creative food here is prize-winning, too, and the ambiance of the dining room is just the right mix of casual and formal. A long bar divides two rooms, making both rooms intimate. Grab the front corner window seat if you can — the cushioned bench seats are incredibly comfortable and come with pillows!

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And be sure to visit with Jim Haines, who grew up in Byron, once worked at the Village Inn in Belgrade Lakes, is related to our friends the Gowlers there, and managed Camden’s elegant Francine Bistro before taking over at Shepherd’s Pie. Chef Brian Hill (who grew up on a Warren farm), another award winner, owns both Francine Bistro and Shepherd’s Pie.

First, let me tell you about something I didn’t have: clam tacos. The young lady at the next table had them, and boy, did they look great!

A big appetite kind of guy, I have to admit I loved the “small plate” experience. The combination of taste and textures in these dishes is extraordinary, worthy of savoring. Yet service is fast here, so you can get in and out quickly if you want.

The Duck Confit was everything Linda said — and I think she got more than her share. The mashed root vegetable dish — not something I would ever have ordered on my own — has become a favorite at home where Lin’s version is really good, too. Last week she planted rutabagas so we can enjoy this dish more often.

But, of course, we had to try the shepherd’s pie. This is not a small plate, but I ate all of it. Well, Lin got some, and from the stains on our menu, which we brought home, I spilled quite a bit of it.

The presentation is awesome, arriving in a black-iron skillet with a tower of fried onions piled on top. I love the traditional shepherd’s pie — great pub food for sure — but this version dressed the old favorite up in new clothes that justified the $21 price. Don’t let that discourage you. This will be one of the best entrées we enjoy all year.

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Lamb shanks provide the substance of the dish, browned on the wood-fired grill and simmered for hours to make them tender, then shredded, mixed with a delicious tomato sauce, and added to a silky-smooth potato puree. A unique dish, certainly, and one that will bring me back to this restaurant.

Their bread pudding is also unique — the best I’ve ever had. Many bread puddings are dense and dried out. This one was very soft and moist, with an awesome almond currant caramel sauce. And you get a huge portion, a good thing, because this is another dish in which Lin “held her own.”

Shepherd’s Pie is located in Rockport’s historic Shepherd Building and billed as a neighborhood pub — but I’d expand on that to call it Maine’s pub. Although Chef Brian Hill’s food is inspired by his world travels from Mexico to Cambodia, he’s put a uniquely Maine twist on each creative appetizer, entrée and dessert.

IF YOU GO . . .

SHEPHERD’S PIE
WHERE: 18 Central St., Rockport
ON THE WEB: shepherdspierockport.com
PHONE: 236-8500
HOURS: Open 7 days a week
5 p.m. to closing  (usually 10 p.m.)

Visit George’s website: www.george
smithmaine.com for travel tips, book reviews, outdoor news and more.

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